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Dharka adag ee shaqada furan, lebbiska, maro hufan, kabo casaan ah - dhammaan kuwani waa xubno ka mid ah ... moodada ragga ee xilliyadii dhawaa. Muxuu leeyahay isbeddelkani? Maxayse yihiin naqshadeeyayaasha adduunka ugu baaqaya inay ragga sameeyaan?
Tuubooyinka qadiimiga ah ee Roomaaniga iyo surwaalka harem ee haweenka bariga, sarongs Indian caalamiga ah iyo djellaba Afrika, kuwaas oo ay xidhaan ragga iyo dumarka isku mar - kuwan iyo noocyada kale ee dharka ayaa muujinaya in taariikhda aduunka ee moodada aysan jirin xiriir cad. inta u dhaxaysa goonnada iyo surwaalka oo leh jinsi gaar ah. Dhammaan waxay kuxirantahay goobta gaarka ah iyo waqtiga ficilka. Marka loo eego jaangooyooyinka dhaqankeena Yurub ee qarniyadii la soo dhaafay, muuqaalka nin ee goono ee dadweynaha waa mid aad u xun ama calaamad u ah jihada aan caadiga ahayn. Dhanka kale, waxaa soo badanaya ragga noocaas ah. Waa maxay sababtu?
"Dhaqankani gabi ahaanba ma aha mid cusub," ayuu yidhi culturologist Olga Vainshtein. - Xusuusnow naqshadeeyaha Faransiiska Jean-Paul Gaultier's Une garde-robe shub ururinta deux ee goonnada ragga - tani waxay ahayd 1985. 2003-2004, Matxafka Farshaxanka ee Metropolitan ayaa martigeliyay bandhigga caanka ah "Bravehearts. Ragga goonnada gashan "(" Daredevils: niman goonyo "). Laakiin, dabcan, labadii sano ee la soo dhaafay, tirada ururinta ragga ee leh faahfaahinta dharka dumarka ayaa si aad ah u kordhay, sidoo kale, moodadani waxay bilowday inay si firfircoon u guurto nolosha.
Dadka caanka ah ayaa si isa soo taraya uga soo muuqda dharka iyo goonnada rooga cas ama dhacdooyinka bulsheed ee muhiimka ah. Waxaa ka mid ah 18-jir Jaden Smith, ina Will Smith, jilayaasha Jared Leto, Van Diesel, rapper Kanye West. Dabcan, taageeraha ugu caansan ee kilt, goonooyinka, sundresses iyo alaabta kale ee haweenka ee dharka dumarka waa naqshadeeyaha moodada Maraykanka, abuuraha calaamad u gaar ah Marc Jacobs, Marc Jacobs.
Ekaterina Orel, cilmi-nafsiga:
Qayb ka mid ah rabitaanka ragga casriga ah si ay si fiican u fahmaan haweenka. Ka dib oo dhan, khilaafyada ku saabsan doorka bulshada, xuquuqda iyo fursadaha haweenka ee bulshada ma joogsadaan, liddi ku ah. Dhanka kale, tababarada "xiro goonnada oo u adeeg ninkaaga" ayaa noqday kuwo firfircoon, dhinaca kale, mowjad xooggan oo dood ah oo ku saabsan qoyska iyo xadgudubka galmada, xiisaha haweenka ee xirfadaha dhaqanka ee ragga ... Oo waxay iila muuqataa in moodada waayo, goonooyinka ragga waa nooc ka mid ah sii wadida sheekadan. Waxaa jira odhaah wanaagsan oo Ingiriisi ah - oo ku taagan kabahayga (macno ahaan "ku taagan kabahayga"), taas oo macnaheedu yahay aqbalaadda ra'yiga, xaaladda, fikradaha qof kale. Naqshadayaasha moodada ayaa macno ahaan ragga ku qasbaya inay isku dayaan doorka haweeneyda leh dhammaan sifooyinka, faa'iidooyinka iyo xaddidaadaha.
Olga Weinstein, culturologist:
Waxaan u arkaa isbeddelkan ugu horrayn inuu qayb ka yahay isbeddelka guud ee ku wajahan burburinta heshiisyada iyo fikradaha dhaqameed ee moodada. Taxanahan waxaa ka mid ah ololeyaasha mudaaharaadyada ee ka dhanka ah Photoshop, muuqaalka kore ee masraxa haweenka aadka u buuran, dadka naafada ah, moodooyinka duugga ah. Iyo dareen cidhiidhi ah, isbeddelkan waxaa lagu qeexay fikradda «qaloocinta jinsiga», taas oo macnaheedu yahay ballaarinta, jilicsanaanta xuduudaha adag ee jinsiga. Maanta, isku-xidhnaanta doorarka, dumarnimada ragga iyo xoraynta haweenka ayaa heerar kala duwan maraya. Dumarku waxay noqonayaan kuwo aad u awood badan oo guuleysta. Dunida Ingiriisiga ku hadasha, waxaa jira fikradda «xoojinta haweenka», taas oo macnaheedu yahay xoojinta jagooyinka iyo fursadaha haweenka, kordhinta isku kalsoonida. Ragga, liddi ku ah, waxay si sii kordheysa u muujinayaan jilicsanaanta iyo dheddigga - xusuusnow nooca metrosexual ee soo muuqday horraantii 2000-meeyadii, isla mar ahaantaana mabaadi'da cusub ee is-daryeelka ragga, is-daryeelka ayaa soo galay moodada.
Skirt - calaamad muujinaysa raganimada?
Dhinaca kale, habka dheddigga ee ragga ayaa noqonaya dhibaato halis ah maanta. Phillip Zimbardo, oo ah cilmi-nafsiga caadiga ah ee cilmu-nafsiga bulshada, ayaa buug gaar ah u huray luminta aqoonsigooda ragga.1. "CWiilasha casriga ah miyay ku fashilmeen aqoon ahaan, bulsho ahaan iyo galmo ahaanba, dumarka da'doodu ka yar tahay 30 jir miyay ragga ka sarreeyaan xagga waxbarashada iyo dakhliga? - wuxuu ku nuuxnuuxsaday Philip Zimbardo. "Is-waafajinta ninka iyo naagtu aad bay u dhibaysaa. Si loo soo celiyo dheelitirka jinsiga, waxaa lagama maarmaan ah in xuquuqda kor u qaadista arrimaha sinnaanta sidoo kale la siiyo ninka."
Marka la eego, horumarinta dharka iyo dharka ragga waa calaamad wanaagsan, isku day ah in lagu soo celiyo dheelitirka. Runtii dumarku waxa ay xidhi jireen surwaal tan iyo bilawgii qarnigi hore, hadaba waa maxay sababta raggu wali u kala saarayaan dharka rag iyo dumarba?
Laakiin isbeddelka moodada ayaa leh xagal kale. "Sida dhacdo kasta oo dunida casriga ah ka jirta, goonooyinka raggu waxay wataan fariin labanlaab ah: siyaabo badan waxay u xoojiyaan raganimada qofka xidhan," ayuu yidhi cilmi-nafsiga Ekaterina Orel. - Ka dib oo dhan, ururka ugu horreeya ee goonnada ninku waa kilt, dharka buuraha, kuwaas oo leh geesinimo iyo gardarro dhaqanka reer galbeedka. Sidaa darteed, gashanaya goonnada, nin, dhinaca kale, wuxuu isku dayaa inuu sawir dhedig ah, dhinaca kale, wuxuu caddeeyaa xooggiisa iyo sarreynta, isagoo xoogga saaraya xiriirka sawirka sare ee dagaal-yahanka.
"Ragga goonnada gashan waxay u eg yihiin ragnimo," Olga Weinstein ayaa xaqiijisay. - Aynu dib u xasuusanno ugu yaraan askartii Roomaanka ee hore ee dharka gaagaaban. Ama, tusaale ahaan, maro madow oo maqaar ah, kabaha ragga ee qallafsan, cawska wejiga iyo gacmaha ragga murqaha ah - isku-dhafkan wuxuu abuuraa sawir aan naxariis lahayn.
Si uun ama si kale, debcinta fikradaha dhaqanka iyo xuduudaha jinsiga, isku xirnaantooda ayaa muuqata. Tan waxaa fududeeyay habka caalamiga ah. "Surwaalka ubaxa, dharka dhaqameed ee bari, waxay noqonayaan moodada adduunka oo dhan, sarongs ma xidhaan kaliya dadka ka soo jeeda Koonfur-bari Aasiya, laakiin sidoo kale dadka reer Yurub, David Beckham, tusaale ahaan, wuu jecel yahay," ayuu xusuusiyay Olga Weinstein. — Taasi waa, dabcan, waxaan ka hadli karnaa isku soo dhawaanshaha Bariga iyo Galbeedka iyo ballaarinta amaahda dhaqanka. Soo ifbaxa moodooyinka transgender-ragga iyo dumarka u beddela jinsigooda qaab qalliin - waxay ka marag kacaysaa dabacsanaanta fikradaha.
1 F. Zimbardo, N. Colombe "Nin Kala Saaran: Ciyaaraha, Porn iyo Luminta Aqoonsiga" (buugga waxaa la daabacay Ogosto 2016 by Alpina Publisher).